Cirque of the Unclimbable – Vol.07

This is a part of my Cirque of the Unclimbables climbing trip in 2019.
Please search for “TheCirque2019” in my blog search or look for #cirqueoftheunclimbables in tag cloud for more posts from this trip.


August 23 -25
Fortunately, the weather forecast was not correct. It did not rain or snow on the 23rd, but we did not go to clean the route due to hazardous icicles.

Since the weather was okay, we walked around our camp to check boulders and some short routes. I was almost snow-free at Fairy Meadow. There were many boulders/routes in the meadow, and most of them were dry. Everyone went climbing their favourite looking routes. Then, we eventually came to the penguin again.

The Penguin

This photo is among climbers for sure, but have you seen the lower pitch?? This is actually the upper pitch of the climb and this cool-looking rock is a part of another huge boulder!

The lower pitch is probably around 5.13-.

There were varieties of grades from easy to hard. We all climbed something and enjoyed the down day.

We had heavy rain the next day. Since our flight-out day was on 28th, we decided to bring some gears down. The forecast for the last 5 days did not look good.

August 25th — The weather forecast said that it would rain or snow, but it was just a little bit. It was mostly sunny with some rain periods. We were 15 days at our fairy meadow base camp, and we learned that the forecast was only 40% accurate. We just had to believe it is going to be okay and climb.

The morning of the 25th looked like the photos above. Mountains were covered with clouds and new snow on them. I loved to look at them and take photos. The snow made the scene as if we were in a black and white world.

Yuki and Botch wishing for the sun

As the day went on, the sky became clearer. We dried our wet camping gears and spent the rest of the day doing not much.

We were not climbing as much as we wanted, but just spending time at this beautiful spot was an amazing experience.

Mt. Proboscis

Mt. Proboscis was the most eye-catching peak from our camp. I kept taking photos of it during the stay and this one taken on the 25th was the best shot.

I was walking around on the 25th and took many landscape photos.

Here are some of my favourites of the day.

To be continued…

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